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flat run question

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Hello,

I have a few small objects I've been working on and have run into an issue with alignment. Sometimes only one of the two camera groups will align and other times they both align, but top and bottom are not recognized and I end up getting a mess. The objects in question are flat bone tools and I thought they would work better shot as flat runs rather than as circuits on a turntable as they are too fragile to stand on end.  They're about 7 inches long and 1/2 inch wide at the widest and tapers down to a point. I suspect my issues lie with the set up. My question is, do I need to change the background (what the object is lying on) when shooting each side (top and bottom)?  And since I'm moving around the object, I would not need to mask it right? Thank you

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There are a couple of variations on this.  My preference is to mask all images as it simplifies supporting the object and reduces alignment issues. Photographing the flat surfaces is the easy bit. Connecting the 2 surfaces as one object requires images that can connect around the thin profile of the object, preferably at each end of the object.  To achieve this you'll need to be able to shoot horizontally to the object, or even better, from slightly below the object. This in turn means supporting the object a little higher above the table. Alternatively if you can support the object on its side it's easier as you're shooting from above and can easily move across the edge.

For the thicker end you may be able to get enough surface detail in each image as you move from front to back but for the tapered end I'd add a small round'ish object just beyond the tip to provide a continuous connection of images.  I use a different object for the left/right sides if you need to move the object in between shooting each side.  Focus is critical when shooting near the edge because you have very little area of detail for alignment. A slight focus shift can break the alignment.

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11 hours ago, ozbigben said:

There are a couple of variations on this.  My preference is to mask all images as it simplifies supporting the object and reduces alignment issues. Photographing the flat surfaces is the easy bit. Connecting the 2 surfaces as one object requires images that can connect around the thin profile of the object, preferably at each end of the object.  To achieve this you'll need to be able to shoot horizontally to the object, or even better, from slightly below the object. This in turn means supporting the object a little higher above the table. Alternatively if you can support the object on its side it's easier as you're shooting from above and can easily move across the edge.

For the thicker end you may be able to get enough surface detail in each image as you move from front to back but for the tapered end I'd add a small round'ish object just beyond the tip to provide a continuous connection of images.  I use a different object for the left/right sides if you need to move the object in between shooting each side.  Focus is critical when shooting near the edge because you have very little area of detail for alignment. A slight focus shift can break the alignment.

Thank you for the advice!  I'll try it.

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