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  1. I have to thank both of you dear Taylor Bennett and Carla Schroer for all the good advices you have given to me. There was one remark I especially appreciate about light- drift in capturing the images. The constructor of the hemisphere took attention to drill the sayed holes towards the epicentre of the sphere but as said, changing the light position is done by hand. The thickness of the sphere is only 6mm; the time between opening and closing the shutter can be long...so unwanted movements can occur meanwhile . I made a construction to hold the light fiber-optic in place as sturdy as possible; but now I have my doubts about the accuracity. One can say this could happen also in taking photographs of greather objects, but not in the same way, while here; only details of "trilobites" are of interest. (so: having light drift on very small fields of interest will affect the end results seriously!) About using the mentionned software; as you said, the images and use of software have to be streamlined all the way. I may be wrong but I had no really bad experiences while my scoop was to prove and not to define and all pictures were done in batch mode or with predifined options. On the other hand I am convinced that you and Carla are right in saying to use only white balance and exposure. . I will try PTGui Pro v 10. to see if the light position- drift would have affected the results. If yes; no other software will be necessary. Thank you Carla for the interesting articles about sharpening and apertures. I will read them with the most interest. Best Regards, Johan Vanhauwaert
  2. Dear Reader, excuse me for my English. (Dutch speaking) I build a very fine static dome out of plexi glass (diameter 80 cm, radius 40 cm), which is a dream to work with. (60 holes) I use a cold beam light to illuminate my objects (trilobites in this case), with a flexible fiber optic of 2 meter. I could not use LED's and software while it was to expensive (I am an old paleontologue of 66 years old) and know nothing about their electronical drives. I will send plans and photographs to people interested in a cheap hemisphere. Taking the 60 pictures is a proces of 10 minutes and totally by hand; one by one !!! I take an overall picture with four Balled Pro Led Lights in top of my hemisphere for a general view. I work with a Nikon 7000D and different macro lenses so as a Nikon 60mm , a Sigma (50mm,105mm and 150mm). The flatter the object the better to use the 150 mm. I use "Helicon Remote Control" as my screen on my laptop Mac Notebook during the photographing and for taking the pictures with my mouse (cordless...a great advantage after all). The trouble is: my images and despite the possibility to double my image on screen is not clear enough, to see if my images are sharp or not (there is also a : "find edges" possibility, but of no use, if one does not photograph in stacking mode). I use also the DOF metering as an app on my ipad and normally I should have enough margin to set sharp. Allthough I use a macrolens at a distance of 40 cm I can not become very fine enlargments, which is normal and not so bad, but in processing as .rti images or .ptm all of the images lack sharpness and have much noise. To help these I use programs onto my images as PhotoZoom Pro 6 to sharpen in batch from .dng to .tif; and use MacPhun Noiseless Pro to .tiff for unnoising the images (one by one....) The .tiff images: I set them over to .jpg by a software called: ContentaConverter PREMIUM V 6.3 which do also a very fine job. Of course I use RTI Builder and RTI Viewer and allthough everything I have good results after all; (I am working on trilobites which are not flat and go sometimes on macro and beyond !!!) Can somebody help me in saying how I can get better and sharper images, please ? Thanks for helping; Johan
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